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of people coming from long disiances merely for the sake of dying on holy
ground, all among Hie monk-eys—which he describes as a most intolerable
nuisance—together with the frantic idolatry that he saw rampant all aroitndj and
the grotesque resemblance- of the Bairagis to the- henmts and ascetics of the ear-
lier ages of Ohrlstiaxutyj seem, to have given the worthy missionary such a shock
that his remarks on the braidings are singularly Yagne and indiscriminating.
Mons. Yictor Jacquemont* who passed through Brinda-ban in the cold
weather of 1829-30, has left rather a fuller description.   He says,   " This is a
very ancient city, and I should say of more importance even than Mathura.   It
is considered one of the most sacred of all among the Hindus, an. advantage
which Mathura also possesses, bat in a less degree.    Its temples are visited by
multitudes of pilgrims, who perform their ablutions in. the river at the differ-
ent ghats, which are very fine.    All the buildings are constructed of red sand-
stone, of a closer grain and of a lighter and less disagreeable colour than that
used at Agra : it comes from the neighbourhood of Jaypur, a distance of 200
miles.   Two of these temples have the pyramidal form peculiar to the "early
Hindu style, but without the little turrets which, in the similar buildings at
Benares seeni to spring out of the main tower that determines the shape of
the edifice.    They have a better effect, from being more simple, but are half
in ruins."    (The temples that he means are Madan Mohan and Jugal Kishor).
" A larger and more ancient ruin is that of a temple of unusual form.    The
interior of the nave is like that of a Gothic church; though a village church
only, so far as size goes.   A quantity of grotesque sculpture is pendent from the
dome, and might be taken for pieces of turned wood.*    An immense number of
beEs, large and small, are carved in relief on the supporting pillars and on tie
walls, worked in the same stiff and ungainly style.    Many of the independent
Bajas of the west, and some of their ministers (who have robbed them well no
doubt) ar© now bnilding at Brinda-basa in a different style, which, though less
original, is in better taste, and are indulging in the costly ornamentation of
pierced stone tracery,   Next to Benares, Brinda-baa is the largest purely Hindu
city that I have seen.   I could not discover in it a single mosque.    Its suburbs
are thickly planted with fine trees, which, appear from a distance like an island
of vexdnre uftt9«s$ady plain."   (These are the large gardens beyond the tem-
ple of Madan Motatij on the old Delhi road.)   " The Doab, which can be seen
* Ti» description  of  the  temple  of Gobind  Dera ia Thornton's Gazetteer contain!
the Miowlng seEteme®, vhieh had often puzzled me.   He says:—«3?rom the ranlted roof
nraaeroas Idol® smddy carred in wood.**   He hat evidently  misunderstood Moni.
J«sqttea»ot*s memaiiig, who xefen not to aoy idoli, but to the curious qaasi-pendeative«, like It-
etees* iluit Qmvneni the doaxe.